Manual states that they are good for up to 15 amps, 1500 watts. Looks like it is good for it. I am running 1200+ watts through one right now.I thought I had killed one. I was wrong. We seemed to be having another power problem that cause one unit to flake out. A power outage the other day that turned out to be a bad connection at my house electric company meter proved that the socket itself had not gone bad. It was just 'scrambled' / 'confused'.The manual for these tells how to perform a factor reset. I did. It still would not show up in my zigbee devices. It took a lot of fussing to work out it was stuck in bluetooth pairing mode. Eventually I worked out how to get it out of that mode and become visible again as a zigbee device. Major pain in the butt. But it is back online and works correctly.So, verdict? It does work. It is responsive to zigbee commands. It works fine with household portable heaters. I took my newly recovered socket and put it onto a heater that has a nasty bug: If the power goes off at the heater, when it comes back on it is running at full power, with no high temperature limit. So I put it on the socket, and set the socket to not turn on after a power loss. That takes care of the risk if we are out of the house when a power outage occurs (however brief). I also put it there so I can monitor power use. That is a great feature on these. I can remotely see how much power the heater is drawing, and turn it off if I need to. Even when I am off in the wild world of fast food restaurants, or some such.Worth buying? Yes, if you are me. For the two reasons I noted above. If I go pickup another thermometer unit, I can setup a script that watches room temperature and can turn it on or off as needed automatically. Exactly what these are built for.I still stand behind the comment below about not using them for things like motors (that do not specifically have a 'soft start' feature). Those can kill any electronic switch not built for the power draw spike.------ Old review.. take two grains of salt - I retract it.------It looks like I managed to kill one by plugging in a room heater into it.This plug works great with Home Assistance , using Zigbee2MQTT. I could see from the power usage sensor that the heater was drawing up to 1300 watts. It seems to work fine. They have been connected together for a day or two. I even wrote an automation to turn it on in my home office before I start work.Just a few hours ago, I turned it off. But it did not turn off. The manual power button works on it. So I followed the instructions on how to wipe it back to factor default and re-pair to my Zigbee network. Removed the device from Home Assistant (HA) and stepped through pairing again. There she is! Add it back into HA and it shows up as a Zigbee Smart Plug from ThirdReality.But.. during the paring process there is an 'interview' stage where HA works out if the device is reporting sensor data and its attributes. This never completes.I bought the four pack and have only used two. So I delete this plug from HA and paired up another one. It paired up quickly and completed the 'interview' instantly.So... yeah.. Maybe just a bad one. Maybe I fried it. I have put the newly paired plug back on the heater. We shall see if it holds up over the next week.Outside of that consideration, I haven't had these very long. Not long enough to give a real review. Just share something you should know.Last little nugget of knowledge: Electronic switches (smart or just a timer) do not do well with major load spikes like running electric motors. That is why they are frequently suggested as not the right solution for things like pond or well pumps. You just burn them out. They do make electronic switches built to survive that workload. I will guess this is not that kind of switch.Be that as it may, so far these are working fine on low power draw workloads (like my desktop PC)