The best steamer on the market. It would be great if they could offer a version that is UL listed or ETL listed at a minimum. If not completely certified, using components with these certs would be a great start. Also an RF remote instead of an infrared remote would be great so you can control the temp inside of a sauna tent (you can place your remote and phone inside of a waterproof phone pouch). I fill it up to 3.5L mark and it seems to reheat the tent faster after you get in and the outside air cools it down somewhat. The higher mass of water or less space between the lid and water creates more steam? I don't know why it works better this way, but it does. Always use distilled water to go easy on the stainless steel and avoid corrosion. Also would be great if a premium version could be offered with a 316 stainless boiler to make it even more robust/safer/corrosion resistant. Be sure to use this with a portable GFCI adapter (Hubbell makes quality ones) or GFCI wall outlet. This ensures you reduce your risk of being electrocuted. It's also a good idea to do a continuity test with a multimeter (harbor freight ones are cheap) every so often on the ground wire and steel sauna pot. I run this steamer on an industrial steel monitor riser stand that has ventilation holes and have ziptied a noctua industrial fan underneath the stand to keep the steamer electrics cool and make the unit ultra reliable. This is a great company too. Had one fail due to overheating and they shipped a new one out to me for free. With my cooling solution, haven't had any problems since and hoping to buy any future upgraded ones with those upgrades I mentioned earlier!Also, I use 1/2" ID food grade silicone brewers tubing to ensure the highest steam flow rate possible. I run the steam tube through one of my grow tent vent holes and cinch it up around the tube to ensure the maximum 1/2" ID steam tube reaches the inside of the tent (no smaller adapter ID restrictions). I also use a smaller tent 27"x27"x63" with the same silicone tubing as a breathing tube between the two closed zips. I use a snorkel mouthpiece from a snorkel (Mares Dual snorkel) that friction fits onto the breathing tube and a swimmers nose clip (just stainless wire w/silicone pads removed). Run the CO2 tests yourself with a CO2 meter and you'll see a breathing tube makes the most sense. Also I use an ikea unfinished wooden dining chair inside to avoid chemicals flowing through my skin pores into my body (see emerging research on this). I placed oversized plastic furniture sliders on all the legs of the chair (using Gorilla double-sided mounting tape) to prevent the chair feet from digging into the tent liner and eventually tearing it (oversized sliders distribute the weight even more). All of the grow/sauna tents do leak somewhat, so I've added a plastic washing machine drain pan to ensure any tent water that leaks is contained. At least 30 minutes before going in, I drink 45 fl oz of distilled water, and then I shower using a cactus body brush with body wash to ensure all the pores on my body will power flush out as many toxins as possible during the session.Here are some other things that are part of my build:Box cutter inside a hanging pouch as an emergency exit precaution, glow-in-the-dark paracord used to make extra long pulls for zips to see/use inside the tent, a water proof LED light with RF remote for ambient lighting inside, dewalt digital timer to control the noctua cooling fan, wall adapter for noctua fan, zip tie the steamer onto the monitor riser stand, drying rack for a bath towel used to dry the tent after use (spin dry in washer then hang dry. Also the towel is self cleaning with ~97% being clean water).Also I keep the inside temperature below 110 degrees to avoid adhesive offgassing in the tent (adhesive between the foil/vinyl). Open, heated skin pores make it easier for any toxins to enter the body (again see research on this). This unit will easily heat to 140 degrees F (w/my tent size), but until I can shield the adhesive from the heat with another material somehow, I keep it below 110. If someone can test VOCs with a meter above 110 for the rest of the community, that'd be cool.Overall, this is what works for me.Update (5/7/24): The cord was extremely hot after running the steamer for 30 minutes on maximum heat (level 16). The hottest part of the cord was at the plug and seemed to transfer that heat down the cord from the cord plug. The cord appears to be ETL listed and has the ETL certification markings on the cord, but the plug itself does not have the ETL stamp on it, and it should to be an ETL certified plug. I'm going to replace the plug with a UL listed 14 AWG gauge rated one and see if the wire still heats up. It could just be the plug. Currently this power cord issue makes this unit a fire hazard. If the replaced plug doesn't fix it, I might try a UL listed power cord and plug that has thicker wires than 14 AWG.Update (5/23/24): I replaced the cord plug with an industrial one and this solved the cord heating issue. Be sure to use a torque screwdriver to properly torque the connections on the replacement plug. Improperly torqued terminals can cause them to heat up. Here's the plug I used and the torque spec for the wires on this one is 14 in-lbs. All steamers on the market are DIY to an extent, so this is a great workaround and adds safety/reliability.Leviton 14W47 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Straight Blade, Plug, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Wetguard, Yellowhttps://a.co/d/f65ZVCO